Meet a tiny charcoal teddy wearing a bright jack-o’-lantern tummy, a soft sage-green neck ruffle, and an orange pumpkin cap topped with a brown stem. Its round ears, short projecting muzzle, stubby limbs, and closely worked chenille stitches echo the black bear in the supplied visual reference. This is an independently drafted miniature adaptation, not a recovered or tested pattern from the photograph. The simple body shapes make an appealing autumn desk companion, ornament, or supervised decorative gift.
A charcoal Halloween teddy with an orange pumpkin belly, curly green collar, and stemmed pumpkin hat.
Pattern Overview
Pattern Overview
- Skill level
- Confident beginner; basic amigurumi and sewing
- Finished size
- About 8 cm / 3.1 in tall, including the stem
- Yarn weight
- Fine chenille, sport/light DK equivalent
- Recommended hook
- 2.5 mm / US size between B-1 and C-2
- Terminology
- US crochet terms
- Construction
- Separate spiraled shapes, sewn together
- Difficulty
- moderate
- Main techniques
- Magic ring, single crochet, increases, invisible decreases, embroidery
The bear is made from one orange pumpkin body, one charcoal head, two ears, one muzzle, two arms, two feet, a short collar, and a separate hat and stem. Its orange torso is a costume-colored body rather than a detachable garment; this keeps the silhouette compact and avoids loose dress-up pieces.
Materials
Materials
- Fine chenille yarn: charcoal 20–25 g, pumpkin orange 10–15 g, muted sage green 3–5 g, brown 2 g
- A short strand of charcoal or brown smooth embroidery yarn for the nose and mouth
- 2.5 mm crochet hook; stitch marker; blunt yarn needle; fine embroidery needle; scissors
- Approximately 5–8 g polyester toy filling and two 4 mm black plastic eyes (or embroidered eyes)
- Small scraps of black felt, sewing thread, and fabric scissors for the three pumpkin-face appliques
Quantities are estimates, not measurements from a worked sample; choose low-shed yarn that holds dense stitches.
Avoid bulky blanket chenille for this 8 cm version: it would increase the finished scale considerably. Use smaller firm fabric pieces rather than heavy adhesive embellishments. If making the bear for a child, avoid plastic eyes, felt pieces, or any detachable small parts; embroidery can reduce hardware but does not guarantee safety.
Crochet Abbreviations
Crochet Abbreviations
- MR
- magic ring, adjustable starting loop
- ch
- chain
- sc
- single crochet through both top loops unless specified
- inc
- 2 sc in the same stitch
- dec
- invisible decrease through front loops of the next 2 stitches
- dc
- double crochet
- sl st
- slip stitch
- st/sts
- stitch/stitches
- FO
- fasten off
Before You Begin
This original design has not been physically test-crocheted. Target gauge, finished measurements, and yarn quantities are estimates to verify with your own materials. Generated illustrations are visual aids, not photographs of a physically tested sample.
Work all amigurumi pieces in continuous, unturned spiral rounds. The first stitch of each new round is marked; do not slip-stitch to join or count a marker as a stitch. The hat, head and limbs are joined later with a yarn needle. For the collar only, work back and forth in rows: turning chain 1 does not count as a stitch; chain 3 at the start of the second row counts as the first dc.
Aim for a dense gauge of roughly 10 sc by 10 spiral rounds over 3 cm (1.2 in) using a softly stuffed test cylinder. At this provisional gauge, a 36-stitch head is about 10.8 cm around or 3.4 cm in diameter, while roughly 25–27 vertically stacked rounds across the body/head yield about 7.5–8.1 cm before stem adjustments and seam compression. If stuffing shows, use a smaller hook. Measure the stuffed head across its widest point before sewing anything permanently. Keep the wrong side inside and use only a light amount of filling around seams.
Complete Crochet Pattern
Step 1 — Practice the single crochet and make the head
Start with charcoal yarn. A single crochet is formed by inserting the hook under both top loops of the next stitch, yarning over, drawing up a loop (two loops on hook), yarning over again, and drawing through both. To make an invisible decrease, insert the hook under the front loops of two successive stitches, yarn over and pull through those front loops, then yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops. Count after each round; increases add one stitch and decreases remove one.
Insert the two 4 mm eyes between rounds 9 and 10 about seven stitches apart, centered on the face, before the opening becomes too small. Add stuffing after round 13, then distribute gently before final closure. For an embroidered-eye version, omit the plastic fittings and stitch small black oval eyes after closing.

Step 1 (top-left): a head worked to its widest spiral rounds. Step 2 (top-middle): the muzzle and eyes positioned on the head. Step 3 (top-right): paired ears joined at the crown. Step 4 (bottom-left): the orange pumpkin body and its face details. Step 5 (bottom-middle): a separate orange cap with a brown stem. Step 6 (bottom-right): the curled sage-green collar before attachment. These are illustrative construction milestones rather than a photographed active-stitch demonstration.
Step 2 — Make the orange pumpkin body
Work in orange from the base upward. The body should be a rounded, slightly squat oval below the larger head. Its front remains orange from top to bottom so the jack-o’-lantern silhouette reads clearly.
Fill loosely after round 11. Before closing, gently flatten the bottom into a stable seating surface. A narrow front-to-back pinch at the sides can suggest pumpkin lobes without adding unsupported ridges; secure these with one or two hidden threads only if the effect is wanted.
Step 3 — Crochet two arms and two feet
For each charcoal arm, work 6 sc in MR (round 1); (sc, inc) 3 times for 9 sts (round 2); sc 9 for rounds 3–6; (sc, dec) 3 times for 6 sts (round 7). FO with a sewing tail. Add only a wisp of filling near the lower end and flatten the open top. Make exactly two.
For each charcoal foot, work 6 sc in MR (round 1); inc around for 12 sts (round 2); sc 12 for rounds 3–5; dec 6 times for 6 sts (round 6). FO with a sewing tail. Lightly stuff, pinch the upper end flat, and make a matched second foot. The feet should be rounded at the toes and slightly shorter than the orange torso, not oversized shoes.
Step 4 — Crochet the ears and rounded muzzle
Each ear uses charcoal: round 1, 6 sc in MR; round 2, inc around for 12; rounds 3–4, sc 12. FO, do not stuff, flatten into a disk, and make two. Sew the flattened bottom edges to either side of the upper head later, leaving the outer tops rounded.
For the muzzle use charcoal: round 1, 6 sc in MR; round 2, inc around for 12; round 3, sc 12; round 4, (sc, dec) 4 times for 8 sts. FO with a long tail. Stuff very lightly. Make only one muzzle, ovalizing it as you attach; embroider a small charcoal-brown horizontal nose at its upper center and a short inverted Y underneath.
Step 5 — Make the orange pumpkin cap and brown stem
The orange cap sits on top of the head, not over the eyes or ears. Make 6 sc in MR (round 1); inc 6 times for 12 (round 2); (sc, inc) 6 times for 18 (round 3); sc 18 in rounds 4–5; (sc, dec) 6 times for 12 in round 6. FO, leave a long sewing tail, and flatten the lower edge into a small soft dome. Do not stuff heavily.
For the brown stem: round 1, 6 sc into MR; rounds 2–4, sc 6. FO and sew its starting base to the orange cap center. A tiny amount of filling is optional, but do not extend the stem into an awkward tall cone.
Step 6 — Crochet the curled green collar
Ch 31 with sage green. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and every remaining chain (30 sc); ch 3 and turn. Row 2: work 2 additional dc in the first sc (the initial ch-3 counts as its first dc), then work 3 dc in each of the remaining 29 sc (90 dc in total counting the ch-3). FO with two sewing tails. This produces a dense ruffle that can be gathered into a neck ring. If your chenille is unusually stiff, substitute a similarly colored smooth yarn for the collar only; its finished dimensions must be checked again.
Lay out all twelve crocheted pieces before sewing: head, body, two ears, muzzle, two arms, two feet, cap, stem, and collar. Verify that the orange front is visible beneath the head and the collar does not hide the pumpkin face.
Assembly and Finishing
Place the stuffed head above the body with their centers aligned and whipstitch through 8–10 nearby stitches around the contacting areas. Fasten firmly and bury both ends inside. Sew the ears around head rounds 5–8 at roughly 10 and 2 o’clock, matching their height and flattening their bases. Attach the muzzle centered below the eyes around rounds 10–13, stitching its full perimeter to avoid a loose edge. Keep the nose level with the eyes.
Sew arms at the upper sides of the orange torso near its rounds 9–10, one on each side, pointing slightly down. Position each foot at the lower sides near body rounds 3–5, toes facing forward. Stitch around each attachment base twice with matching charcoal yarn, drawing no hard dents into the chenille.
Wrap the collar around the junction of head and body with the tall dc side facing outward; join its short ends at the back and catch the foundation edge with small stitches all around. Sew the orange cap between the ears at the very crown and attach the brown stem upright.
Cut two small black felt triangles for the pumpkin eyes and one curved smile with a pointed upturned corner. Place them on the front of the orange torso, keeping at least 3 mm between the facial motifs and arm seams. Sew each shape around its edges with matching black thread rather than relying on glue. For a purely yarn-based finish, embroider the triangular eyes and smile in black instead. Work away and conceal every tail inside the toy. Set it upright and adjust the feet until it rests evenly.
Customization Ideas
Troubleshooting
Filling peeks between stitches
Possible cause: Hook is too large for the fine chenille or tension is loose
Head tilts forward
Possible cause: The neck contact area is too small or seams are uneven
Collar hides the pumpkin face
Possible cause: Ruffle is gathered too low or sewn with its tall edge downward
Bear tips when seated
Possible cause: Feet were attached too high or stuffing is concentrated at the back
Care Instructions
Cleaning
Drying and reshaping
Storage
Frequently Asked Questions
Questions You Might Have
Conclusion
This tiny Teddy O’ Lantern is all about recognizable proportions: a large soft charcoal head, a tidy orange jack-o’-lantern belly, a playful sage collar, and one little stem. Check every join, settle the stuffing, and give the face a last adjustment before displaying your finished Halloween bear.

Completed charcoal pumpkin teddy with rounded ears, pumpkin costume, green ruffle, and brown-stemmed cap.



