amigurumi halloween witch free pattern

This cheerful miniature dragonfly has a rounded lime-green head, a softly tapered striped tail, two tiny antennae, and four white wings. A small stitched smile makes the face expressive without requiring complicated shaping. The piece is designed for decorative display or an optional bag charm rather than for unsupervised play.

The reference establishes the color arrangement and recognizable silhouette, but not its hidden construction or stitch counts. This tutorial develops those details as an independent working draft in fine, tightly crocheted cotton.

A lime-green miniature dragonfly with a round smiling face, four white wings, and a dark-green-striped tail.

Pattern Overview

Materials

Crochet Abbreviations

Before You Begin

Work head and body in continuous, unjoined rounds without turning; shift the marker after each round. The wings use turned rows; each ch 1 is only a turning chain. Use a small hook so stuffing is not visible between the plied cotton stitches. A target check is approximately 7 sc across 2 cm (0.8 in) and 8 rounds across 2 cm, measured on a lightly stuffed 30-stitch head circumference section; your actual gauge may differ. At that target, 30 stitches make a circumference of about 8.6 cm and a spherical head around 2.7 cm wide. The body/tail adds roughly 4.5–5 cm of length after sewing. Firmness matters more than exact toy gauge: if holes expose filling, try a 2.0 mm hook.

For decorative use only: plastic eyes, embroidery threads and any optional charm hardware can detach or catch. Do not assume this item is safe for babies or young children. Embroidered eyes avoid plastic fittings but do not automatically make a toy child-safe.

Complete Crochet Pattern

Step 1 — Start the round lime-green head

Use A. The adjustable ring is shown in the foundation photo sequence; the chain that secures the ring does not count as a stitch. Insert the hook under the front and back top loops for regular sc. This sequence is for the actual head foundation, not for a separate decorative disk.

Step 1 (top-left): Cross A into an adjustable ring, keeping the tail separate.
Step 2 (top-middle): Draw a working loop through the ring with the hook.
Step 3 (top-right): Secure the loop with one chain, which is not counted.
Step 4 (bottom-left): Begin placing the six Round 1 single crochets inside the ring.
Step 5 (bottom-middle): Work around the center opening to establish the first six stitches.
Step 6 (bottom-right): Pull the tail tight to close the center and continue the increase rounds.

Step 2 — Finish the face and close the head

Before the opening narrows, place the eyes between Rounds 8 and 9, approximately 7 stitches apart when counted across the front. Orient the beginning-of-round marker to the back. If using plastic eyes, attach both washers inside now. Alternatively, embroider two black satin-stitch eyes after stuffing and closing. For the photographed-style look, a tiny white straight stitch beside each black eye suggests a highlight. Embroider a shallow black V-shaped smile centered one round below the eyes, taking care not to pull the face inward.

Avoid overstuffing: the head should stay rounded without stretching its stitches into visible gaps. Mark the head's bottom closure as the attachment point for the torso.

Step 3 — Crochet the striped tail and torso as one piece

Start at the tail tip and work upward in continuous rounds. Change colors on the last yarn-over of the preceding stitch, carrying B only along the short striped section when the fabric remains opaque. The base uses lime green A, and three narrow deep-green bands occur at Rounds 3, 5 and 7. Cut B after Round 7 and secure its end inside.

The tail must look slimmer than the torso. At the stated round gauge, 17 worked rounds contribute approximately 4.25 cm before shaping and joining; the visible length can vary with stuffing and seam overlap. Pin the torso beneath the head before sewing, with the narrow tail pointing straight down.

Step 4 — Make the four white wings

Make FOUR identical flat wings in C, each worked from a narrow base outward and then tapered to a rounded tip. These are flat turned rows, not spirals. Always ch 1 to turn; that chain does not count. Keep all rows right-side consistent and do not stuff. Pin all four before sewing so no wing is accidentally reversed.

At the target gauge, each 8-row wing is about 2 cm long and slightly more than 1 cm wide. Rework a wing if the first two foundation stitches have accidentally become three: an incorrect base will rotate when attached.

Step 1 (top-left): Check the stuffed head's eye spacing before its last decreases.
Step 2 (top-middle): Hold the narrow torso top under the center of the head.
Step 3 (top-right): Examine the long tapered tail before joining it to the head.
Step 4 (bottom-left): Lay out four white wing pieces in two matched pairs.
Step 5 (bottom-middle): Pin one upper and one lower wing to each side of the torso.
Step 6 (bottom-right): Check symmetry and tail orientation before permanently sewing.

Step 5 — Add the short antennae and optional tiny arms

For each of two antennae, join A to a head stitch at the upper left or right edge, about six stitches apart across the crown. Ch 5, then sl st into the second chain from the hook and each of the remaining 3 chains. FO and secure the yarn end inside the head. The finished antennae bend gently outward, about 1 cm tall. They are decorations, not grabbing handles.

The reference also shows tiny side arms beneath the face. To include them, join A to a torso stitch at each side of Round 14, ch 3, sl st into the second and final chain, sl st in the torso attachment stitch and FO. Make two. These small arms are optional; the photographed base concept includes them.

Assembly and Finishing

Place the torso's open 9-stitch upper edge against the closed underside of the head, centered on the face. Sew every torso stitch securely to nearby underside head stitches, passing under complete stitch bars rather than through loose stuffing. Keep the head upright and the tail aligned vertically. Lightly reshape the head after stitching.

Position the roots of the upper wings at the sides of torso Rounds 14–15, pointing diagonally upward. Place the lower wings just beneath them at Rounds 11–12, pointing outward and down. Each wing's narrow Row 1 end touches the body, leaving the broad middle and tip free. Sew the first two rows of each wing firmly to the torso across a roughly 4–5 mm base, making repeated small stitches; do not stitch the long wing edges flat to the body. Check from the front and back that all four wings spread independently without twisting.

Secure antenna ends and arm ends inside the head/torso with several discreet passes; weave in the white wing tails within the flat fabric before clipping. Flatten and finger-shape the wings rather than aggressively stretching them. If using a cotton label that permits gentle steam, hold any steam source away from plastic eyes and stuffing; never press the wings directly with a hot iron.

Step 1 (top-left): Align the head, torso, and two wing pairs before sewing.
Step 2 (top-middle): Check how both white wing pairs fan around the torso after attachment.
Step 3 (top-right): Use a yarn needle to secure one short lime-green antenna at the crown.
Step 4 (bottom-left): Check the two curved antennae and smile from the front.
Step 5 (bottom-middle): Inspect the back of the sewn head, torso and wing pairs.
Step 6 (bottom-right): Check that the face, four wings, and downward tail are aligned.

Customization Ideas

Troubleshooting

Care Instructions

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

This small dragonfly works best when its head stays rounded, its slender tail hangs straight, and all four wings spread freely. Count each round, pin the pieces before sewing, and adjust the wing angles until the finished silhouette feels balanced.

The finished miniature dragonfly, with a soft green smile, tiny antennae, four white wings and a slim striped tail.