amigurumi halloween witch free pattern

Meet a cheerful pocket-sized harvest friend with a round embroidered face, a shallow straw-colored brim, messy yellow yarn hair, tiny red sleeves, and navy overalls. This miniature scarecrow is built from a compact stuffed body and head, then dressed with stitched-on details. Its little green sprout makes the rustic hat easy to recognize.

A palm-sized scarecrow with a tan brimmed hat, loose straw hair, stitched smile, red shirt, blue overalls, and little green sprout. This generated illustration is a design guide rather than a photograph of a physically tested sample.

Pattern Overview

Materials

Crochet Abbreviations

Before You Begin

Work right side facing outward in continuous spirals, not joined rounds, unless a row is specified. Move your marker at each round start. A securing chain for the MR does not count. No turning chain counts as a stitch. Use a firm gauge target of approximately 7 sc and 7 rounds per 2 cm (0.8 in), measured over the middle of a stuffed-free cylindrical practice swatch; rounded parts can differ. The 12-round torso/head stack plus a 5-round hat crown gives a rough 7–8 cm tall figure after overlap and stuffing, not a guaranteed dimension. Make a 24-stitch-wide practice tube if needed and measure its center; change hooks by 0.25 mm if stuffing gaps or disproportionate width appear.

Because of yarn fringes and small embellishments, this is a decorative figure, not a toy for babies or young children. Stitch all decorations securely and inspect regularly. No attached eye hardware is used.

Complete Crochet Pattern

Step 1 — Start the base and torso

Begin with pale yellow. This is the flat standing bottom; the upper torso is worked upward from it. All rounds are continuous. Stitch counts include decreases/increases, never the marker.

Illustration of foundation yarn work. Step 1 (top-left): make the adjustable loop for the yellow base MR. Step 2 (top-middle): insert the hook into the loop. Step 3 (top-right): pull up a loop with the working strand. Step 4 (bottom-left): secure the starting loop. Step 5 (bottom-middle): make the first six sc into the open ring. Step 6 (bottom-right): pull the separate tail to close Round 1. Inspect the visible loops before copying the movement.

Step 2 — Crochet the cream face and head

Make one cream head. Place embroidered facial details before closing so that knots stay hidden. The broadest portion uses 30 stitches; the head should be larger than the 18-stitch red neckline.

Face the MR crown upward. The front center is opposite the round marker, approximately between stitches 14 and 15 on Round 7. With black thread, embroider small vertical eyes separated by 6–7 stitches, across Rounds 7–8. Add a tiny orange vertical triangular nose midway between them. Stitch a shallow curved smile one round below the nose with 5–6 tiny black backstitches. Weave ends inward; never knot on the exterior.

Step 3 — Make two red sleeves

Make exactly two matching sleeves, each starting at the outer straw-hand end and finishing at the inner shoulder. In red, MR 6 sc (Round 1, 6 sts); Round 2 sc 6 (6); Round 3 [sc 1, inc] three times (9); Round 4 sc 9 (9). FO with 18 cm tails. Do not stuff. Flatten each open shoulder and sew it against the torso's red side at Round 11, one centered on each side. The sleeve tapers toward the hand.

Step 4 — Crochet the separate tan hat

Make one hat crown starting at its top and increasing to the brim. Tan yarn matches the straw-inspired silhouette without needing actual straw.

The transition to front loops makes the brim project outward. Hat crown is 24 sts around and brim has 36 sts; don't pull the brim tight. Work a second pass of plain sc in the same color only if you deliberately want a larger brim; it is not part of this sample.

Step 5 — Two overall straps and one green sprout

For each of two navy straps, ch 11; sc in second ch from hook and across (10 sc). FO leaving tails on both ends. Each strap crosses the front from the navy waistband near Round 8 to the red shoulder near Round 12; adjust by placing before sewing rather than adding stitches.

Make one small green sprout: ch 6, sl st in second ch and next ch, ch 4, sl st in second ch and next two ch, then sl st into the same base chain to bring both branches together. FO with two tails. This is a small forked leaf detail, not a structurally loaded hanging loop.

Shaping and component illustration. Step 1 (top-left): inspect the cream head silhouette around 30-st rounds. Step 2 (top-middle): place straw-colored strands near its upper sides. Step 3 (top-right): check the tan crown and widening brim. Step 4 (bottom-left): compare navy-overall and red-shirt color placement. Step 5 (bottom-middle): place pale-yellow hand fringe at a sleeve end. Step 6 (bottom-right): dry-fit the hat with the green sprout before permanent attachment.

Assembly and Finishing

First join the head to the body: center the face above the red front, align the head's 12-st opening to the torso's 12-st opening, and whipstitch one stitch to one stitch around. Add a final pinch of stuffing before the last stitches, then hide the tail inside. The head should sit stable without tilting.

Sew each sleeve's flattened 9-st open edge to the red side of the torso, level with the top half of Rounds 11–12. Keep the two ends at the same height. For straw hands, fold three pale-yellow 4 cm pieces in half at a time, pass the folds under sleeve-end stitches with a needle or fine hook, and pull loose ends through those loops. Trim the tassel ends to 1–1.5 cm. Repeat on the other side; tug each little bundle to check its hold.

Attach two straps vertically about six stitches apart on the torso front. Sew their lower ends into the navy Round 8 band and upper ends near the red Round 12 edge, keeping a visible red central bib. Tack each strap at mid-height if it lifts away. A navy line of surface slip stitches along the waistband is optional, but not shown in the base design.

For the hair, use 8–12 additional pale-yellow lengths about 5 cm long. Anchor the midpoint of each through the head stitches along the upper left and right side at approximately Rounds 4–6, leaving the face unobstructed. Trim to varying 1.5–2.5 cm fringe lengths. Lay the hat on the head and position its brim just above the eyes. Stitch through crown Round 6 to several head stitches all around; keep the rim free so it flares. Sew the two green sprout tails into hat Round 2, slightly off center, and secure inside. Move or trim hair away from eyes and smile.

Finally, shape the bottom flat between thumb and finger. Hide every end in the stuffing and inspect sewn anchors. The base sample stands for display; it has no dangling keychain hardware.

Finishing illustration. Step 1 (top-left): inspect the head's eye and smile embroidery. Step 2 (top-middle): distribute pale-yellow fringe around the upper head. Step 3 (top-right): check the tan hat brim over the hair. Step 4 (bottom-left): align red sleeves and navy straps on the torso. Step 5 (bottom-middle): secure short straw fringe into a sleeve tip. Step 6 (bottom-right): inspect the sewn-on sprout and face clearance in the assembled figure.

Customization Ideas

Troubleshooting

Care Instructions

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

The finished scarecrow is a small but characterful fall decoration. The charm comes from its simple color blocks, the stitched expression, and a fringe of imperfect straw hair; trim the threads lightly rather than making every strand identical.

Finished design reference: a little cream-faced scarecrow wearing a tan brimmed hat with green sprout, red sleeves, navy overalls, and loose yellow hair and hands. The illustration also contains instructional material and is not a separate finished-only photograph.