amigurumi halloween witch free pattern

This friendly woodland moose sits on its rounded haunches with a generous muzzle, small ears, four short legs, and two pale branching antlers. The sample uses smooth cotton so every stitch is easy to count, and the separate parts are sewn securely after crocheting. It is a miniature decorative figure, approximately 8 cm (3.1 in) tall including antlers, not a toy designed for babies.

A caramel-brown miniature moose with a rounded muzzle, cream antlers, and short seated legs.

Pattern Overview

Materials

Crochet Abbreviations

Before You Begin

Work continuous spiral rounds without joining or turning. Mark the first stitch of every round; the initial magic-ring securing chain does not count. No turning chains are used in the main pieces. Make a 6-round test circle using the head instructions: it should measure about 2.8 cm (1.1 in) across after Round 5 at 30 stitches; this is a target, not a guarantee. A firm fabric should show no stuffing when gently stretched. If the circle is too large, use a smaller hook; if too tight to insert into, size up 0.25 mm. Finished height combines approximately 4.5 cm body/head stack with about 3.5 cm visible antler rise; reposition joins to check against 8 cm overall. A tight crochet fabric matters more than meeting an exact dimension. Because removable eyes and small parts pose choking risks, keep this decorative piece away from babies and young children. Embroidered eyes avoid loose plastic hardware but do not certify a child-safe toy.

Complete Crochet Pattern

Step 1 — Begin the rounded head

Use A. The starting ring is the same technique for the body, muzzle, legs, and antler branches.

Before closing the head, insert eyes between Rounds 8 and 9, about 7 stitches apart across the front, or embroider eyes at assembly. Avoid pushing washers against the face; position them where the muzzle will not hide them.

Step 1 (top-left): Form a separate adjustable loop with yarn A and its tail.
Step 2 (top-middle): Catch the working strand through the ring with one hook.
Step 3 (top-right): Secure the starting loop while holding the tail apart.
Step 4 (bottom-left): Work the first sc into the ring opening.
Step 5 (bottom-middle): Continue six first-round single crochets into the ring.
Step 6 (bottom-right): Pull the separate tail to draw the center closed.

Step 2 — Shape the sitting body

Use A. Work from the lower, broad base toward the narrow neck.

The body should have a gently flattened bottom and a narrower top. If it tips backward, redistribute the fill toward the lower front before sealing.

Step 3 — Muzzle and ears

Muzzle, one in A:

Ears, make two in A:

Each ear becomes a shallow oval when flattened. Sew through both edge layers when attaching so they retain an outward cup instead of looking like spikes.

Step 4 — Four little legs

Make four; begin each foot in B and switch to A after Round 2. The color break forms the dark hoof. Front legs are sewn more vertically; back legs sit wider.

Make all four legs to the same count. For shorter rear feet, fold the back legs further beneath the body at attachment rather than changing stitch counts.

Step 5 — Two cream branching antlers

Each antler is a small assembled fork: make one trunk and two twig branches in C per side (six narrow tubes total). Unlike rigid wire antlers, these stay flexible and are suitable for a decorative miniature. Work carefully without stuffing these narrow parts.

Lay each trunk nearly upright. Sew one twig at trunk Rounds 3–4, angled outward, and the second at Rounds 5–6 angled up and outward. Stitch around the base of each twig at least twice and bury ends in the tube. Mirror the orientation of the second antler. Each assembly now contains one vertical stem and two projections, not a single unworked fan.

Step 1 (top-left): Check the closed head and eye positions before attaching the muzzle.
Step 2 (top-middle): Hold the completed narrow body upright on its broad base.
Step 3 (top-right): Arrange four tubular legs with their contrast hoof ends aligned.
Step 4 (bottom-left): Prepare the ivory forked antler assemblies separately.
Step 5 (bottom-middle): Flatten the two ear openings for sewing to the head sides.
Step 6 (bottom-right): Position the facial parts and antlers before final attachment.

Assembly and Finishing

With the head facing you, center the muzzle over approximately Rounds 9–12, directly below the eyes. Use a small whipstitch through the muzzle final-round edge and corresponding head stitches; add a pinch of stuffing before closing the last quarter. The muzzle should project forward, not tilt downward. Attach the body to the underside of the head, centering the neck along head Rounds 11–13. Make several circles of sewing stitches to stabilize the join. Pin front legs symmetrically on body Rounds 7–10, about four stitches apart at their top attachment. Angle them down so dark tips rest at floor level. Sew rear legs at body Rounds 4–6 toward the left and right side; tip the hooves forward. Sit the moose on a level table before tightening all leg seams. Attach ears on each side of the head near Rounds 6–8 with cup openings angled forward. Place cream antlers on upper head at approximately Round 4, one to either side of the crown, leaving several stitches of brown between their bases. Mirror their outward-facing branches. Make at least two strong passes through each trunk base and several nearby head stitches, then knot internally and bury tails. Do not insert wire. Optional: use two small black embroidery stitches as nostrils on the front of the muzzle; the base design leaves the muzzle plain.

Step 1 (top-left): Align a dark hoof at the end of one front leg.
Step 2 (top-middle): Pair the front legs at matching height.
Step 3 (top-right): Sew a leg top to the stuffed body with a yarn needle.
Step 4 (bottom-left): Check that the seated body balances on its legs.
Step 5 (bottom-middle): Pin the cream antler at the upper head beside an ear.
Step 6 (bottom-right): Check both mirrored antlers and all joints before burying tails.

Customization Ideas

Troubleshooting

Care Instructions

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

A tiny moose has lots of character from only a few repeatable shapes. Check the sitting balance, mirror the antlers, and secure every tail before displaying your finished woodland figure. A second one in darker brown makes a charming companion without changing the working instructions.

The completed woodland moose design shown with its rounded muzzle, seated legs, and branching antlers; illustrative image.